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- MAZDA PROTEGE CAR DYING BELOW 2000K RPM DRIVERS
- MAZDA PROTEGE CAR DYING BELOW 2000K RPM MANUAL
- MAZDA PROTEGE CAR DYING BELOW 2000K RPM CRACK
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I'd also suggest at least bleeding the clutch line.and if you've never serviced the brake system other than pad and rotor changes.replacing the entire system with fresh fluid.I went 150,000 miles with factory brake came out looking like black coffee.
MAZDA PROTEGE CAR DYING BELOW 2000K RPM MANUAL
Have you changed your gear oil? that is a very often overlooked fluid for manual does last an extremely long time, as there isn't all that much heat inside a 3rd gens manual gear box.but it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it with some high quality stuff (only need 3 quarts) and see if that helps at all.will at least be the beginning of narrowing your issue down. A bad engine mount alone could cause some crazy shuddering, especially in lower gears.the stock mounts are extremely soft, and if even one gets torn up.its surprising the engine will even stay in the car. Check the small power supply wire and the charging light wire. Check the serpentine belt and make sure the alternator is spinning with the engine. For 2002, Mazda dropped the weak 1.6-liter four-cylinder engine in favor of the smooth, 130-hp 2.0-liter, which is now standard. Check the ground cable between the engine and the body. The Proteg remains a solid small-sedan choice. Second: Does the car ever pop out of 1st gear, once moving, if you suddenly let off the throttle? This could be caused by a number of things.shift fork problems, broken engine mounts, binding shift linkage, etc. Check the large power cable to the alternator and the fuse, usually, a large 40-60 amp fuse near the battery. The clutch cylinder shares fluid with the brake system.but weirdly, the clutch cylinder draw fluid from the very top of it.just getting the brake fluid slightly low (way before you'd even get the brake light) can begin pulling in air.causing clutch disengagement om what you listed, i'm leaning more towards a problem with the clutch being fully released.so, if you're positive the fluid level is fine (and also, are aware of the last time the fluid has been completely changed), move on.ĭoes the transaxle shift into 1st gear ok? If you have trouble engaging first gear from a stop (clunks or grinds, or doesn't let you move the shifter fully into the gate), even with the clutch pedal fully pressed.and the above fluid levels check out.thats a sure sign of a dying release 'll usually be the most noticeable in first gear, as the ratio for first is extremely short.if the clutch disc isn't properly being 'released', its extremely tough on the 1st gear synchros to match the speed (hence the trouble selecting 1st, but not nearly as much with other gears once moving).once engaged, the load from the car itself will usually cause it to slip enough that the car doesn't move, though.but with a bad release bearing, whats happening is the clutch is never being completely disengaged.if that makes sense.with this issue you'll often also have problems selecting reverse as well. So to start: First check the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir. Pilot bearing, release bearing, clutch disc/blade, pressure plate.or a bad 1st gear synchro/collar/shift fork (if you're positive it only happens in first gear).but the only way to check any of that is at least taking the box off.
MAZDA PROTEGE CAR DYING BELOW 2000K RPM DRIVERS
Open the hood immediately and check.Ī failed solenoid can make a clicking sound when you try to start the engine.Things to check, and sorry for the length.but unfortunately your problem could be any number of whats being listed.Ĭlutch slave cylinder, and the release fork (can be checked for binding from just behind the fans on the gear box side of the engine, drivers side of the compartment), as well as the pedal linkage in the foot well.other than that, its mostly internal.and would involve removing the gearbox. When a coil goes bad there may be smoke or odor. It could be a bad starter, corroded cables, or a broken connection somewhere between the battery and starter. Other problems can also cause a car to not start. Once the alternator stops working, so do all of the electrical systems required to keep a car going. If your car's solenoid or starter is bad, the lights will shine brightly but the engine will not start.
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When an ignition coil goes bad, the result is similar to a failed alternator: The car loses power and won't start. If the problem is with your battery, then you'll generally only have trouble starting your car since that's the battery's main function. If not, try tapping the EGR valve and see if it shuts. If the idle smooths out, you have an EGR valve control problem. Try unplugging the vacuum line from the EGR valve. Another good possibility is the EGR valve is stuck open or the EGR control is allowing vacuum to get to the EGR valve.
MAZDA PROTEGE CAR DYING BELOW 2000K RPM CRACK
You'll be driving down the road, your lights will dim, and you'll lose power and die. They often crack in the valleys and are hard to spot. If the problem is a bad alternator, your car will slowly lose power.